Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

[Douglas A. Stansfield]

Dear EV enthusiasts,

 

I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has now
stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just installing
this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out the
issue.

 

Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.

 

As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.

 

Doug Stansfield

www.EVAlbum.com/1973

 

 

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[David Chapman-9]

Its a simple but less effecient solution to the problem. This is the way my Gvan was built, no dc-dc just an alt off the accessory drive.  If you drive off the prime mover then you will only charge while moving but thats better than nothing. And ICE alternators are very tough. David.


--- On Wed, 11/11/09, Douglas A. Stansfield <[hidden email]> wrote:


From: Douglas A. Stansfield <[hidden email]>
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>, [hidden email]
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 4:40 PM


Dear EV enthusiasts,



I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has now
stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just installing
this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out the
issue.



Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.



As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.



Doug Stansfield

www.EVAlbum.com/1973





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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

The Alternator I am thinking of using is this one:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=0&statenval=200000363+19
84&productId=2018615&shopid=100001&pageid=13&skuId=488051&id=1697496&id=1697
496

It is rated at 200amps which is much higher than the DC/DC converter so I am
thinking that since I have a Deep Cycle accessory battery and keep it
charged while the main pack in charging thus the only time it would be taxed
is when I am stopped and the main motor isn't turning.  If the accessory
battery is starting to go dead, then even at an intersection at night I
could always take the car out of gear at the intersection and spin the motor
in order to help keep the accessory battery charging.  I think I am going to
go this way as it is only $41 and change and basically I could buy 3 of them
for the cost of 1 DC/DC converter.  

Doug

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of David Chapman
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:55 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Its a simple but less effecient solution to the problem. This is the way my
Gvan was built, no dc-dc just an alt off the accessory drive.  If you drive
off the prime mover then you will only charge while moving but thats better
than nothing. And ICE alternators are very tough. David.


--- On Wed, 11/11/09, Douglas A. Stansfield <[hidden email]>
wrote:


From: Douglas A. Stansfield <[hidden email]>
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>,
[hidden email]
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 4:40 PM


Dear EV enthusiasts,



I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has now
stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just installing
this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out the
issue.



Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.



As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.



Doug Stansfield

www.EVAlbum.com/1973





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[Roland Wiench]

Using a alternator works too.  I been using a very large one which is use to
put three heater loads on the motor while I go down very steep hills.  While
I go up hill, a micro switch opens a relay that opens the R-circuit to the
alternator or the 12 volt power to the alternator and then the DC-DC
converters kick in.

Here in Montana, I live in area where the hills are like a roller coaster.
Only up or down. This alternator acts just like REGEN braking.  In the
summer, I may want to let it go a speed.  One section I was able to coast
over 5 miles going up and down hills.

Don't want to do that in the winter time. One time I was going down a long
icy hill and did not dare hit the brakes.  It got up to 85 mph on that run
without hitting any cars.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 3:40 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

> Dear EV enthusiasts,
>
>
>
> I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
> now
> stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
> installing
> this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
> have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
> converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
> Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
> battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
> the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out
> the
> issue.
>
>
>
> Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
> battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
> the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
> happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.
>
>
>
> As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.
>
>
>
> Doug Stansfield
>
> www.EVAlbum.com/1973
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> Unsubscribe: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
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>
>

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[David Roden-3]

It's kind of like having a multiple speed transmission in a conversion -
it's less efficient (the alternator is worse in this regard than that trans
for sure), and heavier (it's probably better than the trans on this).  That
said, I doubt that the efficiency hit would be of great significance for
your range.

An alternator also requires a tailshaft on the motor; not all of them have
one.  It takes up more room under the hood, has MUCH less flexibility in
mounting, and requires a belt which takes a little bit of maintenance.

IMO bolting a DC:DC under the hood is much easier than making a bracket for
an alternator.  Saving that time and effort is worth a lot to me, but might
not be to you.

But most likely an alternator came free with your glider, so if your motor
has a tailshaft it's one solution.  

One final thought.  No offense to anyone, but IMO Kelly might be considered
a second- or third-tier brand.  You don't always get what you pay for, but
you very seldom get what you don't pay for!  So you might also think about
anteing up a little (or a lot) more cash and trying a first-tier brand DC:DC
such as Sevcon, Curtis, Brusa, MES-DEA, or Azure/Solectria.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
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reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

Dear Roland,

I will be installing the Alternator I think.  Getting tired of having to
keep worrying about the DC/DC converter working....

Otherwise, I was thinking of putting another accessory battery in parallel
while I wait for the new Alternator.


Sincerely;

Douglas A. Stansfield
President
www.TransAtlanticElectricConversions.com
973-875-6276 (office)
973-670-9208 (cell)
973-440-1619 (fax)

WHOLESALE ELECTRICITY PROVIDERS
And ELECTRIC CAR PRODUCERS




-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 7:41 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Using a alternator works too.  I been using a very large one which is use to

put three heater loads on the motor while I go down very steep hills.  While

I go up hill, a micro switch opens a relay that opens the R-circuit to the
alternator or the 12 volt power to the alternator and then the DC-DC
converters kick in.

Here in Montana, I live in area where the hills are like a roller coaster.
Only up or down. This alternator acts just like REGEN braking.  In the
summer, I may want to let it go a speed.  One section I was able to coast
over 5 miles going up and down hills.

Don't want to do that in the winter time. One time I was going down a long
icy hill and did not dare hit the brakes.  It got up to 85 mph on that run
without hitting any cars.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 3:40 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

> Dear EV enthusiasts,
>
>
>
> I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
> now
> stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
> installing
> this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
> have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
> converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
> Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
> battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
> the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out
> the
> issue.
>
>
>
> Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
> battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
> the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
> happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.
>
>
>
> As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.
>
>
>
> Doug Stansfield
>
> www.EVAlbum.com/1973
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>

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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

Thanks Dave,

I am going to try the Alternator approach.  My motor has the tail shaft and
I have room next to it free right now and I don't mind doing a little
fabricating. Seems like it would work. That is a much cheaper way to go I
think.   My car now has plenty of power going for it.  I love the
acceleration and speed I can get this thing going.  Batteries right now suck
but I am looking forward to some new batteries at some point.

Sincerely;

Doug Stansfield
www.EVAlbum.com/1973
 

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of EVDL Administrator
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 7:39 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

It's kind of like having a multiple speed transmission in a conversion -
it's less efficient (the alternator is worse in this regard than that trans
for sure), and heavier (it's probably better than the trans on this).  That
said, I doubt that the efficiency hit would be of great significance for
your range.

An alternator also requires a tailshaft on the motor; not all of them have
one.  It takes up more room under the hood, has MUCH less flexibility in
mounting, and requires a belt which takes a little bit of maintenance.

IMO bolting a DC:DC under the hood is much easier than making a bracket for
an alternator.  Saving that time and effort is worth a lot to me, but might
not be to you.

But most likely an alternator came free with your glider, so if your motor
has a tailshaft it's one solution.  

One final thought.  No offense to anyone, but IMO Kelly might be considered
a second- or third-tier brand.  You don't always get what you pay for, but
you very seldom get what you don't pay for!  So you might also think about
anteing up a little (or a lot) more cash and trying a first-tier brand DC:DC

such as Sevcon, Curtis, Brusa, MES-DEA, or Azure/Solectria.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" an "etpost" addresses will not
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


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[David Roden-3]

On 11 Nov 2009 at 19:08, Douglas A. Stansfield wrote:

> If the accessory battery is
> starting to go dead, then even at an intersection at night I could always take
> the car out of gear at the intersection and spin the motor in order to help
> keep the accessory battery charging.

Yikes!  Don't do this if you have a series motor!  It's much too easy to
overspeed the motor and destroy it.  It can happen in a fraction of a second
because series motors tend to take off with a zoom when lightly loaded.

If you have to buy the alternator brand new, I see less benefit to using
one.  

I'd also be a little careful of J C Whitney's stuff.  They may be different
now, but back when I used to buy from them 25 or more years ago, they sent
me some of the most gawdawful crummy no-name junk I'd ever seen. If you
really want to go with an alternator, I'd suggest visiting a boneyard ...
er, I mean auto recycler.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" an "etpost" addresses will not
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

Dave,

I totally understand the over spinning issue and would not "rev" the thing
out of control.  It was just a last minute desperate idea to help keep the
battery up but I really don't think with the alternator spinning while
driving should keep the accessory battery going for much longer than it does
now because while driving it is suppose to put out 200 amps.  The Whitney
Alternator is a Bosch brand.  I don't think that is a bad brand.  Am I
missing something.  There are cheaper brands out there but I thought Bosch
was a really good brand.

Have you had a bad experience with Bosch?


Doug



-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of EVDL Administrator
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 7:47 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

On 11 Nov 2009 at 19:08, Douglas A. Stansfield wrote:

> If the accessory battery is
> starting to go dead, then even at an intersection at night I could always
take
> the car out of gear at the intersection and spin the motor in order to
help
> keep the accessory battery charging.

Yikes!  Don't do this if you have a series motor!  It's much too easy to
overspeed the motor and destroy it.  It can happen in a fraction of a second

because series motors tend to take off with a zoom when lightly loaded.

If you have to buy the alternator brand new, I see less benefit to using
one.  

I'd also be a little careful of J C Whitney's stuff.  They may be different
now, but back when I used to buy from them 25 or more years ago, they sent
me some of the most gawdawful crummy no-name junk I'd ever seen. If you
really want to go with an alternator, I'd suggest visiting a boneyard ...
er, I mean auto recycler.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" an "etpost" addresses will not
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


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[Roland Wiench]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

> Dear Roland,
>
> I will be installing the Alternator I think.  Getting tired of having to
> keep worrying about the DC/DC converter working....
>
> Otherwise, I was thinking of putting another accessory battery in parallel
> while I wait for the new Alternator.
>
>
> Sincerely;
>
> Douglas A. Stansfield
> President
> www.TransAtlanticElectricConversions.com
> 973-875-6276 (office)
> 973-670-9208 (cell)
> 973-440-1619 (fax)
>
> WHOLESALE ELECTRICITY PROVIDERS
> And ELECTRIC CAR PRODUCERS
>
>

You can actually bolt a aluminum plate to the front face of the motor which
can hold not only the alternator, but a belt driven vacuum pump, power
steering and A/C.  Most motors will have four bolt holes on the front face.
One of the Net Gain motors has this set up.

With this amount of load of the motor, I can idle either a GE 11 or a Warp 9
or Warp 11 motor by switching in another 5k ohm pot that is set for about
500 rpm. This second pot becomes handy when servicing the A/C system with
out a stick pushing on the accelerator.

I find if I have to do a lot of short stops and go, I use less energy than
having to start the motor up from 0 rpm.  Surges to 200 amps from idle
instead to 400 amps from 0 rpm.

Another method I use some times to keep the alternator up to speed, if
before I come to a stop, I slip the transmission into neutral and the motor
and large flywheel will continue to spin up to thirty seconds.  My battery
voltmeter still shows above 13.5 volts at the end of this spinning.

Now if you have to squeeze every bit of energy out of you main battery to
get your range, loading the motor with accessory drives, you may not make
it.   Me, I do not discharge my batteries below 80% SOC.  Most of the time,
I am above 90% SOC even driving all these accessories.

Roland

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[Bob Rice-2]

   Hi Doug;

   Break down, go to Wal*Mart or a cheepo parts place and pop 20 bux and buy
a garden tracter battery!They are small, VERY common, hence the cheap price!
A Alternater belt driven off the front shaft of the motor works just FINE. I
sense Wayne at EV Blue nodding and saying ;"I TOLD ya so!" He has done over
ONE HUNDRED conversions! Sez it's the cheap way out. Do ya have the alt.
that the car was born with? HE always did! It's used to it, and it will be
happy to have it back? Or as David sez, you might wanna pop for a GOOD ,
pricy, DC to dc, converter> I must say, my Sevcon one has been the most
trouble free thing on the car! When I was running 90 volts it didn't care,
went back up to 120 volts, it never broke a sweat.I JUST hooked up an Iota
in Mike O's S-10, seems to be doing fine, as it CAME with an AC plug I just
plugged it in, and forgot about it, for tonite. I charged the 144 volt pack
today, cooked it lightly with the
Monster Charge" Variac setup, got up to about 180 volts!Of COURSE I took the
truk for a spin, it cruises along in 3rd at about 75-80 amps @ 40-45mph, of
course it's hard to give constant amp draw figures as WHERE the hell do ya
find ANY lenghty, FLAT road in CT??As I had NO tags, insurance, etc I stayed
pretty darn close to home. I WANTED to crank her on, and see what she'd do,
but not going for any speed stuff 'til legal!Oh the Vacuum brakes sure would
be nice, too, for less stopping distance than a loaded Acela Express! Gently
cycling the new badd-eries, go a few miles, charge 'er up again, do MORE
miles and charge her again. Yur batteries will thank you that you broke them
in GENTLY! They will pay you back with loooong range and life.Well, it's
relative, sigh. I thought 20 k was a good lifespan for a pack of
floodies?But when they go, the animate perversity of in- animite objects;
one goes, and the OTHERS quickly follow. "IF he goes, I'm outta here,
too!"Believe me I tried replacing, onesies-twosies, but they, the rest of
the pack is on to you ,pretty quick!Good Union??

    My suggestion to youse newbees; don't chunk a new pack in yur pride and
joy, and go blasting off with a "look at me , look at me , now! (From 'Cat
in the Hat!") How FAST it will go and how far? Don't be tempted. Break them
in lightly. Go out 3-4 miles, come home an' charge, do it again when you
have a few more minutes, short runs, extend yur joy rides as your cyclage
builds up, stay outta the go(was gunna say GAS) pedal, go lightly! A little
foreplay, if ya will?Build up 50-100 miles of gentle driving, before going
to the races<g>/ Oh we don't do that here, THAT'S  over on the NEDRA Yahell
group site<g>!I would guess a 144 volt S-10 could manage 70-80 full bore?
EVentually, like a Conrail, or Union Pathetic, freight train?

    But, to sorta wander back to the point, I DO, occasuionally? The decent
Acc. Battery WILL get ya home when your charging system shits out! A safety
thing as you can run your flashers, etc, AND pull in yur line switch! MAYBE
ya should have a set of clip leads jumpers, say#10 wire, to tap the main ,
traction pack IF ya got anything left THERE? So you can get home, dignity
intact. The garden tracter badd-eries go bad in about a year, I've found.
Last one died, I SMELLED the SMELL of hydrogen, THAT smell we ALL know and
love so well! Ran down to my local battery place and got another GT
batterey. We're still honeymooning!Forgot about it, already!

    YMMV?

     Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:40 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?


> Dear EV enthusiasts,
>
      MORE stuff below.

>
> I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
> now
> stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
> installing
> this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
> have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
> converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
> Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
> battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
> the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out
> the
> issue.
>

      That's the TROUBLE with DC to dc's. They are silent, don't say
anything,good or bad, you don't know it has shit the bed, UNTIL a dark
night!I guess IF they hummed, whirred, beeped or SOMETHIN to let you know
they are STILL on the job? Of course a VOLT meter will clue you in.

>
> Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
> battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
> the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
> happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.
>
>
>
> As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.
>
> This is WHY were here!
>
> Doug Stansfield
>
> www.EVAlbum.com/1973
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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[Rick Beebe]

Douglas A. Stansfield wrote:
> Thanks Dave,
>
> I am going to try the Alternator approach.  My motor has the tail shaft and
> I have room next to it free right now and I don't mind doing a little
> fabricating. Seems like it would work. That is a much cheaper way to go I
> think.   My car now has plenty of power going for it.  I love the
> acceleration and speed I can get this thing going.  Batteries right now suck
> but I am looking forward to some new batteries at some point.

EV-Propulsion sells a pre-built bracket for this.

http://www.ev-propulsion.com/kits.html (scroll down)

--Rick

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[hazemsedra]

Thanks Bob, for your great advise to newbiees concerning the honewmoon period

with new batteries...very helpful advise!

 

I am usually stuck in the office from 8 to 5 dealing with H1N1, so I look forward to your morning briefings to help me start the day right.

Thanks

Hazem
 

> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email]
> Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 01:40:16 -0500
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
>
> Hi Doug;
>
> Break down, go to Wal*Mart or a cheepo parts place and pop 20 bux and buy
> a garden tracter battery!They are small, VERY common, hence the cheap price!
> A Alternater belt driven off the front shaft of the motor works just FINE. I
> sense Wayne at EV Blue nodding and saying ;"I TOLD ya so!" He has done over
> ONE HUNDRED conversions! Sez it's the cheap way out. Do ya have the alt.
> that the car was born with? HE always did! It's used to it, and it will be
> happy to have it back? Or as David sez, you might wanna pop for a GOOD ,
> pricy, DC to dc, converter> I must say, my Sevcon one has been the most
> trouble free thing on the car! When I was running 90 volts it didn't care,
> went back up to 120 volts, it never broke a sweat.I JUST hooked up an Iota
> in Mike O's S-10, seems to be doing fine, as it CAME with an AC plug I just
> plugged it in, and forgot about it, for tonite. I charged the 144 volt pack
> today, cooked it lightly with the
> Monster Charge" Variac setup, got up to about 180 volts!Of COURSE I took the
> truk for a spin, it cruises along in 3rd at about 75-80 amps @ 40-45mph, of
> course it's hard to give constant amp draw figures as WHERE the hell do ya
> find ANY lenghty, FLAT road in CT??As I had NO tags, insurance, etc I stayed
> pretty darn close to home. I WANTED to crank her on, and see what she'd do,
> but not going for any speed stuff 'til legal!Oh the Vacuum brakes sure would
> be nice, too, for less stopping distance than a loaded Acela Express! Gently
> cycling the new badd-eries, go a few miles, charge 'er up again, do MORE
> miles and charge her again. Yur batteries will thank you that you broke them
> in GENTLY! They will pay you back with loooong range and life.Well, it's
> relative, sigh. I thought 20 k was a good lifespan for a pack of
> floodies?But when they go, the animate perversity of in- animite objects;
> one goes, and the OTHERS quickly follow. "IF he goes, I'm outta here,
> too!"Believe me I tried replacing, onesies-twosies, but they, the rest of
> the pack is on to you ,pretty quick!Good Union??
>
> My suggestion to youse newbees; don't chunk a new pack in yur pride and
> joy, and go blasting off with a "look at me , look at me , now! (From 'Cat
> in the Hat!") How FAST it will go and how far? Don't be tempted. Break them
> in lightly. Go out 3-4 miles, come home an' charge, do it again when you
> have a few more minutes, short runs, extend yur joy rides as your cyclage
> builds up, stay outta the go(was gunna say GAS) pedal, go lightly! A little
> foreplay, if ya will?Build up 50-100 miles of gentle driving, before going
> to the races<g>/ Oh we don't do that here, THAT'S over on the NEDRA Yahell
> group site<g>!I would guess a 144 volt S-10 could manage 70-80 full bore?
> EVentually, like a Conrail, or Union Pathetic, freight train?
>
> But, to sorta wander back to the point, I DO, occasuionally? The decent
> Acc. Battery WILL get ya home when your charging system shits out! A safety
> thing as you can run your flashers, etc, AND pull in yur line switch! MAYBE
> ya should have a set of clip leads jumpers, say#10 wire, to tap the main ,
> traction pack IF ya got anything left THERE? So you can get home, dignity
> intact. The garden tracter badd-eries go bad in about a year, I've found.
> Last one died, I SMELLED the SMELL of hydrogen, THAT smell we ALL know and
> love so well! Ran down to my local battery place and got another GT
> batterey. We're still honeymooning!Forgot about it, already!
>
> YMMV?
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
> To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
> <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:40 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
>
>
> > Dear EV enthusiasts,
> >
> MORE stuff below.
> >
> > I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
> > now
> > stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
> > installing
> > this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead. Anybody
> > have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
> > converter? I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
> > Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
> > battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all. I live in
> > the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out
> > the
> > issue.
> >
> That's the TROUBLE with DC to dc's. They are silent, don't say
> anything,good or bad, you don't know it has shit the bed, UNTIL a dark
> night!I guess IF they hummed, whirred, beeped or SOMETHIN to let you know
> they are STILL on the job? Of course a VOLT meter will clue you in.
> >
> > Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the Accessory
> > battery. Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
> > the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
> > happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.
> >
> >
> >
> > As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.
> >
> > This is WHY were here!
> >
> > Doug Stansfield
> >
> > www.EVAlbum.com/1973
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20091111/92cb71b9/attachment.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > General support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Unsubscribe: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archive / Forum: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
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>

     
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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

Thanks Rick,

I think I will just fabricate it.  I have an Advanced DC 9 inch motor not a
warp.

It shouldn't be too big a deal to get it set up.

Thanks for the reference point however....

Doug
www.evalbum.com/1973  

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of Rick Beebe
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 9:08 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Douglas A. Stansfield wrote:
> Thanks Dave,
>
> I am going to try the Alternator approach.  My motor has the tail shaft
and
> I have room next to it free right now and I don't mind doing a little
> fabricating. Seems like it would work. That is a much cheaper way to go I
> think.   My car now has plenty of power going for it.  I love the
> acceleration and speed I can get this thing going.  Batteries right now
suck
> but I am looking forward to some new batteries at some point.

EV-Propulsion sells a pre-built bracket for this.

http://www.ev-propulsion.com/kits.html (scroll down)

--Rick

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[Bob Rice-2]

  Thanks Hazem! Ya gotta SHARE as you learn about this stuff! hope I bring a
smile to the folks on the List, with my experiances, good and bad!?PROBABLY
blown up MORE badd-eries than anybody! Be carefull, hydrogen explosions are
dramatic and picturesque!I've been lucky!

    Gees H1N1? Feh! It's THAT bad, nowadaze? How do YOU keep from gettin'
it? Just curious? Dr's AREN'T supposed to get sick<g>?!

     Bob, still healthy?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hazem Sedra" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

>
> Thanks Bob, for your great advise to newbiees concerning the honewmoon
> period
>
> with new batteries...very helpful advise!
>
>
>
> I am usually stuck in the office from 8 to 5 dealing with H1N1, so I look
> forward to your morning briefings to help me start the day right.
>
> Thanks
>
> Hazem
>
>> From: [hidden email]
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 01:40:16 -0500
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
>>
>> Hi Doug;
>>
>> Break down, go to Wal*Mart or a cheepo parts place and pop 20 bux and buy
>> a garden tracter battery!They are small, VERY common, hence the cheap
>> price!
>> A Alternater belt driven off the front shaft of the motor works just
>> FINE. I
>> sense Wayne at EV Blue nodding and saying ;"I TOLD ya so!" He has done
>> over
>> ONE HUNDRED conversions! Sez it's the cheap way out. Do ya have the alt.
>> that the car was born with? HE always did! It's used to it, and it will
>> be
>> happy to have it back? Or as David sez, you might wanna pop for a GOOD ,
>> pricy, DC to dc, converter> I must say, my Sevcon one has been the most
>> trouble free thing on the car! When I was running 90 volts it didn't
>> care,
>> went back up to 120 volts, it never broke a sweat.I JUST hooked up an
>> Iota
>> in Mike O's S-10, seems to be doing fine, as it CAME with an AC plug I
>> just
>> plugged it in, and forgot about it, for tonite. I charged the 144 volt
>> pack
>> today, cooked it lightly with the
>> Monster Charge" Variac setup, got up to about 180 volts!Of COURSE I took
>> the
>> truk for a spin, it cruises along in 3rd at about 75-80 amps @ 40-45mph,
>> of
>> course it's hard to give constant amp draw figures as WHERE the hell do
>> ya
>> find ANY lenghty, FLAT road in CT??As I had NO tags, insurance, etc I
>> stayed
>> pretty darn close to home. I WANTED to crank her on, and see what she'd
>> do,
>> but not going for any speed stuff 'til legal!Oh the Vacuum brakes sure
>> would
>> be nice, too, for less stopping distance than a loaded Acela Express!
>> Gently
>> cycling the new badd-eries, go a few miles, charge 'er up again, do MORE
>> miles and charge her again. Yur batteries will thank you that you broke
>> them
>> in GENTLY! They will pay you back with loooong range and life.Well, it's
>> relative, sigh. I thought 20 k was a good lifespan for a pack of
>> floodies?But when they go, the animate perversity of in- animite objects;
>> one goes, and the OTHERS quickly follow. "IF he goes, I'm outta here,
>> too!"Believe me I tried replacing, onesies-twosies, but they, the rest of
>> the pack is on to you ,pretty quick!Good Union??
>>
>> My suggestion to youse newbees; don't chunk a new pack in yur pride and
>> joy, and go blasting off with a "look at me , look at me , now! (From
>> 'Cat
>> in the Hat!") How FAST it will go and how far? Don't be tempted. Break
>> them
>> in lightly. Go out 3-4 miles, come home an' charge, do it again when you
>> have a few more minutes, short runs, extend yur joy rides as your cyclage
>> builds up, stay outta the go(was gunna say GAS) pedal, go lightly! A
>> little
>> foreplay, if ya will?Build up 50-100 miles of gentle driving, before
>> going
>> to the races<g>/ Oh we don't do that here, THAT'S over on the NEDRA
>> Yahell
>> group site<g>!I would guess a 144 volt S-10 could manage 70-80 full bore?
>> EVentually, like a Conrail, or Union Pathetic, freight train?
>>
>> But, to sorta wander back to the point, I DO, occasuionally? The decent
>> Acc. Battery WILL get ya home when your charging system shits out! A
>> safety
>> thing as you can run your flashers, etc, AND pull in yur line switch!
>> MAYBE
>> ya should have a set of clip leads jumpers, say#10 wire, to tap the main
>> ,
>> traction pack IF ya got anything left THERE? So you can get home, dignity
>> intact. The garden tracter badd-eries go bad in about a year, I've found.
>> Last one died, I SMELLED the SMELL of hydrogen, THAT smell we ALL know
>> and
>> love so well! Ran down to my local battery place and got another GT
>> batterey. We're still honeymooning!Forgot about it, already!
>>
>> YMMV?
>>
>> Bob
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
>> To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
>> <[hidden email]>
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:40 PM
>> Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
>>
>>
>> > Dear EV enthusiasts,
>> >
>> MORE stuff below.
>> >
>> > I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one
>> > has
>> > now
>> > stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
>> > installing
>> > this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead. Anybody
>> > have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
>> > converter? I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged
>> > Deep
>> > Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
>> > battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all. I live
>> > in
>> > the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure
>> > out
>> > the
>> > issue.
>> >
>> That's the TROUBLE with DC to dc's. They are silent, don't say
>> anything,good or bad, you don't know it has shit the bed, UNTIL a dark
>> night!I guess IF they hummed, whirred, beeped or SOMETHIN to let you know
>> they are STILL on the job? Of course a VOLT meter will clue you in.
>> >
>> > Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the
>> > Accessory
>> > battery. Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down
>> > when
>> > the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
>> > happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast
>> > again.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.
>> >
>> > This is WHY were here!
>> >
>> > Doug Stansfield
>> >
>> > www.EVAlbum.com/1973
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > URL:
>> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20091111/92cb71b9/attachment.html
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > General support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> > Unsubscribe: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> > Archive / Forum: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>> >
>>
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>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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[Lawrence Rhodes]

http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls.htm
You can pick them up  on ebay for 100 dollars.  The advantage is that if you keep the ac plug you can disconnect it & charge your battery separately from the pack.  The 120v version can go up to about 180vdc & the 220 version much higher.  Make sure you get a 55amp version.  Some of the 45amp versions are the same price.  Lawrence Rhodes...

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[Dennis Miles-2]

On Thu, Nov 12, 2009 at 1:40 AM, Bob Rice <[hidden email]> wrote:

>   Hi Doug;
>
>   Break down, go to Wal*Mart or a cheepo parts place and pop 20 bux and buy
> a garden tracter battery!They are small, VERY common, hence the cheap
> price!
> A Alternater belt driven off the front shaft of the motor works just FINE.
> I
> sense Wayne at EV Blue nodding and saying ;"I TOLD ya so!" He has done over
> ONE HUNDRED conversions! Sez it's the cheap way out. Do ya have the alt.
> that the car was born with? HE always did! It's used to it, and it will be
> happy to have it back? Or as David sez, you might wanna pop for a GOOD ,
> pricy, DC to dc, converter> I must say, my Sevcon one has been the most
> trouble free thing on the car! When I was running 90 volts it didn't care,
> went back up to 120 volts, it never broke a sweat.I JUST hooked up an Iota
> in Mike O's S-10, seems to be doing fine, as it CAME with an AC plug I just
> plugged it in, and forgot about it, for tonite. I charged the 144 volt pack
> today, cooked it lightly with the
> Monster Charge" Variac setup, got up to about 180 volts!Of COURSE I took
> the
> truk for a spin, it cruises along in 3rd at about 75-80 amps @ 40-45mph, of
> course it's hard to give constant amp draw figures as WHERE the hell do ya
> find ANY lenghty, FLAT road in CT??As I had NO tags, insurance, etc I
> stayed
> pretty darn close to home. I WANTED to crank her on, and see what she'd do,
> but not going for any speed stuff 'til legal!Oh the Vacuum brakes sure
> would
> be nice, too, for less stopping distance than a loaded Acela Express!
> Gently
> cycling the new badd-eries, go a few miles, charge 'er up again, do MORE
> miles and charge her again. Yur batteries will thank you that you broke
> them
> in GENTLY! They will pay you back with loooong range and life.Well, it's
> relative, sigh. I thought 20 k was a good lifespan for a pack of
> floodies?But when they go, the animate perversity of in- animite objects;
> one goes, and the OTHERS quickly follow. "IF he goes, I'm outta here,
> too!"Believe me I tried replacing, onesies-twosies, but they, the rest of
> the pack is on to you ,pretty quick!Good Union??
>
>    My suggestion to youse newbees; don't chunk a new pack in yur pride and
> joy, and go blasting off with a "look at me , look at me , now! (From 'Cat
> in the Hat!") How FAST it will go and how far? Don't be tempted. Break them
> in lightly. Go out 3-4 miles, come home an' charge, do it again when you
> have a few more minutes, short runs, extend yur joy rides as your cyclage
> builds up, stay outta the go(was gunna say GAS) pedal, go lightly! A little
> foreplay, if ya will?Build up 50-100 miles of gentle driving, before going
> to the races<g>/ Oh we don't do that here, THAT'S  over on the NEDRA Yahell
> group site<g>!I would guess a 144 volt S-10 could manage 70-80 full bore?
> EVentually, like a Conrail, or Union Pathetic, freight train?
>
>    But, to sorta wander back to the point, I DO, occasuionally? The decent
> Acc. Battery WILL get ya home when your charging system shits out! A safety
> thing as you can run your flashers, etc, AND pull in yur line switch! MAYBE
> ya should have a set of clip leads jumpers, say#10 wire, to tap the main ,
> traction pack IF ya got anything left THERE? So you can get home, dignity
> intact. The garden tracter badd-eries go bad in about a year, I've found.
> Last one died, I SMELLED the SMELL of hydrogen, THAT smell we ALL know and
> love so well! Ran down to my local battery place and got another GT
> batterey. We're still honeymooning!Forgot about it, already!
>
>    YMMV?
>
>     Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
> To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
> <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:40 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?
>
>
> > Dear EV enthusiasts,
> >
>      MORE stuff below.
> >
> > I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
> > now
> > stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
> > installing
> > this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
> > have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
> > converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
> > Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
> > battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live
> in
> > the country and there are NO street lights to start trying to figure out
> > the
> > issue.
> >
>       That's the TROUBLE with DC to dc's. They are silent, don't say
> anything,good or bad, you don't know it has shit the bed, UNTIL a dark
> night!I guess IF they hummed, whirred, beeped or SOMETHIN to let you know
> they are STILL on the job? Of course a VOLT meter will clue you in.
> >
> > Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the
> Accessory
> > battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to go down when
> > the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time left which
> > happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is toast again.
> >
> >
> >
> > As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.
> >
> > This is WHY were here!
> >
> > Doug Stansfield
> >
> > www.EVAlbum.com/1973
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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> =========================ALTERNATOR==========================
>

Hi Bob and Doug,  It feels like time to offer my encouragement, Like Wayne,
I agree that an alternator belt driven off the brush end shaft of the series
DC motor is still the most reliable and fairly inexpensive way to keep the
12 V. accessory battery charged. I like keeping it simple so if the original
alternator from the glider is not available (And can be switched on and off
by the power (Ignition) switch) then I use a Motorola "One Wire" Alternator,
just one wire to connect to the 12 V. battery and ground the mount to the 12
V. negative.  my boating friends swear by their simple hook up and great
reliability even in Marine use... get them at any "Marine Supply" and many
other sources.
Regards,
    Dennis Miles,    (Director / CEO)
Electric Vehicle Technical Institute Inc.
Tampa Bay Region, Florida, USA
       Phone (863) 289 - 0690
"Mentoring, Small Group Instruction,
and Hands-On training
for the EV Technicians:
Building, Converting, Repairing,
and Servicing the
Electric Vehicles of Today,
and the Future."
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[Cor van de Water]

Why did your DC/DC die?


Cor van de Water
Director HW & Systems Architecture Group
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [hidden email]    Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water     IM: [hidden email]
Tel: [phone]        VoIP: [phone] FWD# 25925
Tel: [phone] x203 XoIP: [phone]

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
Behalf Of Douglas A. Stansfield
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 5:10 AM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'; [hidden email]
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Dear EV enthusiasts,

 

I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
now stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
installing
this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged
Deep Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the
Accessory battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at
all.  I live in the country and there are NO street lights to start
trying to figure out the issue.

 

Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the
Accessory battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to
go down when the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time
left which happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is
toast again.

 

As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.

 

Doug Stansfield

www.EVAlbum.com/1973

 

 

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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

Cor,

Who knows?  Opening up the box shows it is a big block of Epoxy.  Maybe it
overhead.  Maybe the soldering was good but who could tell with Epoxy all
over it.  Maybe both of them just had poor quality components in them?  I
can't be sure which one of these is the issue but I can't tell you for sure
that they both stopped working after about 2 months of use.  Therefore, if
you need a short term DC/DC converter, please go ahead and purchase one.  If
you want one that lasts longer than that, I would recommend another brand or
the alternator approach.  I really want to do the Alternator approach.  Once
I get around to it and test it, I will let you know how it is working out.

Doug
www.EVAlbum.com/1973

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of Cor van de Water
Sent: Saturday, November 14, 2009 5:20 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Why did your DC/DC die?


Cor van de Water
Director HW & Systems Architecture Group
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [hidden email]    Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water     IM: [hidden email]
Tel: [phone]        VoIP: [phone] FWD# 25925
Tel: [phone] x203 XoIP: [phone]

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
Behalf Of Douglas A. Stansfield
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 5:10 AM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'; [hidden email]
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Dear EV enthusiasts,

 

I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has
now stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just
installing
this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.    Anybody
have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged
Deep Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the
Accessory battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at
all.  I live in the country and there are NO street lights to start
trying to figure out the issue.

 

Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the
Accessory battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to
go down when the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time
left which happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is
toast again.

 

As always, appreciate the input ahead of time.

 

Doug Stansfield

www.EVAlbum.com/1973

 

 

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[Roland Wiench]

-----Original Message-----

By Douglas A. Stansfield
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 5:10 AM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'; [hidden email]
Subject: [EVDL] Alternator instead of DC to DC converter?

Dear EV enthusiasts,

I have put two Kelly DC to DC converters in my EV and the second one has now
stopped charging my accessories battery and I am considering just installing
this low cost Alternator off the motor with a pulley instead.

Anybody have any reason to not do this and try again with a different DC/DC
converter?  I can drive around in the mean time with a fully charged Deep
Cycle but that approach spooks me at night as I have had the Accessory
battery die at night before and don't like that feeling at all.  I live in
the country and there are NO street lights to start
trying to figure out the issue.

Since then, I have installed a Volt meter gauge strictly for the
Accessory battery.  Just in case it starts to look like it is going to
go down when the brake pedal is depressed, I know I don't have much time
left which happened tonight and thus figured out the DC/DC converter is
toast again.

Douglas


Hello Douglas,

If you are using a alternator, it is best to use a alternator that is design
to charge a deep cycle battery.  These type of alternators have a maximum
voltage selection control on the outside of the alternator.  My maximum
voltage range on this type of charger is 13.5, 14.0, 14.5 and 15 volts.

At first I had the standard charger that range from 13.5 to 14 volts for a
standard cranking amp battery.  If you are driving long distances with out
too many stops, then you can get by with a standard alternator and CA
battery.  My driving is all in city driving 15 to 30 mph with up to 22
stops.  Any time the motor rpm drops below 350 rpm, the charger drops off
the line.

The deep cycle accessory battery will provide plenty of energy during these
stops.  A lot of times, I may make a quick stop and go the accessory battery
may only drop to about 13.5 volts before the alternator kicks back in.

To get the alternator to exciting voltage at a low rpm, you need the same
pulley set up as it was on the engine.  If you are only connecting directly
between the main motor pilot shaft and the alternator, then you will note
that the pulley on some engines are between 6 and 8 inches in diameter.  The
pulley on the alternator is between 2 and 3 inches.

If you use a immediate pulley using three of more pulleys which I do, then I
can by with a smaller pulley on the main motor to maintain a higher rpm on
the alternator while the motor rpm is low.

I purchase my alternator from my independent auto parts store.  Instead of
buying alternator for a application which the clerk will always ask you,
tell him you want to see the alternator catalog and you will find the one
that is use for deep cycle batteries if you go that way.

Sometimes these alternators may need a initial excitation to start  to work.
This is done by shorting one of the - field to the ground of the alternator.
Have the dealer put this alternator on there test stand and they will use
a - field shorting pin that inserts into a hole in the alternator while it
runs up to rpm.  Record at what rpm that the alternator starts to excites at
and then you can calculated what pulley size you need on the main motor.

Roland
 

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