HV fuse placement in Sky/TS traction pack

[Rob Trahms]

Hi all -

I am getting ready to upgrade my 96V lead acid pack with a 170 lithium pack, and had a question about HV fuse placement.

I have 2 Ferraz-Shawmut 500A fuses in my current pack, one in the front section and one in the back.  As many know, these are fairly beefy fuses, similar to a D-cell in size.  The issue is, I have 2/0 cabling between batteries now, easy enough to put one of these bad boys inline with the connection.  With Lithium prismatic cells however, the connections are now small straps between tightly packed cells - not really a lot of room for a HV fuse.  

What have folks done for fusing in this case?  

Thanks!
Rob

[joe-22]

I bought a fuseblock for the Mustang - not cheap, and you have to mount it
(it's rather large). But a nice solution for the purpose. I'm only using one
between the pack positive and the controller - the fuseblock also makes a
good place to attach various smaller wires to the pack positive, and a good
place to disconnect the controller by backing off the set screw and pulling
out the lead.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]



----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Trahms" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 6:48 AM
Subject: [EVDL] HV fuse placement in Sky/TS traction pack

>
> Hi all -
>
> I am getting ready to upgrade my 96V lead acid pack with a 170 lithium
> pack,
> and had a question about HV fuse placement.
>
> I have 2 Ferraz-Shawmut 500A fuses in my current pack, one in the front
> section and one in the back.  As many know, these are fairly beefy fuses,
> similar to a D-cell in size.  The issue is, I have 2/0 cabling between
> batteries now, easy enough to put one of these bad boys inline with the
> connection.  With Lithium prismatic cells however, the connections are now
> small straps between tightly packed cells - not really a lot of room for a
> HV fuse.
>
> What have folks done for fusing in this case?
>
> Thanks!
> Rob
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n4.nabble.com/HV-fuse-placement-in-Sky-TS-traction-pack-tp584961p584961.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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07:37:00

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[Lee Hart]

Rob Trahms wrote:
 >> I have 2 Ferraz-Shawmut 500A fuses in my current pack...these are
 >> fairly beefy fuses, similar to a D-cell in size. I have 2/0 cabling
 >> between batteries now... What have folks done for fusing in this
 >> case?

First thought: 500 amps is too big for 2/0 cable and normal batteries
and controllers. The 500a fuse will carry 1000 amps for many seconds
before it blows, by which time your batteries, controller, or wiring may
have already failed!

On mounting fuses. Joe Strubhar's idea is a good one -- use a commercial
fuseholder. As an alternative, I have also used junction blocks. See for
example www.waytekwire.com stock# 47211 or 47213.

Joseph H. Strubhar wrote:
> I bought a fuseblock for the Mustang - not cheap, and you have to
> mount it (it's rather large). But a nice solution for the purpose.
>
> I'm only using one between the pack positive and the controller - the
> fuseblock also makes a good place to attach various smaller wires to
> the pack positive

A fuseholder is a good investment. But I'd be cautious about attaching
many different-sized wires to the same set screw terminal. It's easy to
have one or more of them make a bad connection and not know it.

Also, be sure to include smaller fuses for the smaller wires. One of the
(many) reasons for a fuse is to protect the wiring from overheating and
catching fire. A 500amp main fuse won't protect a little #18 wire going
off to some pack voltage measurement circuit.



--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Rob Trahms]

Thanks Lee, that is great info - I kinda figured they were too big!
Live and learn (and spend as I go!)...

The fuse block and the mounting ideas are good - I can do that.
Suggestions on fuse sizes?  My pack will have 53 SE100AHAs in series, and worst
case is 3C-4C draw from the pack.

Rob

Lee Hart wrote:

Rob Trahms wrote:
 >> I have 2 Ferraz-Shawmut 500A fuses in my current pack...these are
 >> fairly beefy fuses, similar to a D-cell in size. I have 2/0 cabling
 >> between batteries now... What have folks done for fusing in this
 >> case?

First thought: 500 amps is too big for 2/0 cable and normal batteries
and controllers. The 500a fuse will carry 1000 amps for many seconds
before it blows, by which time your batteries, controller, or wiring may
have already failed!

On mounting fuses. Joe Strubhar's idea is a good one -- use a commercial
fuseholder. As an alternative, I have also used junction blocks. See for
example www.waytekwire.com stock# 47211 or 47213.

Joseph H. Strubhar wrote:
> I bought a fuseblock for the Mustang - not cheap, and you have to
> mount it (it's rather large). But a nice solution for the purpose.
>
> I'm only using one between the pack positive and the controller - the
> fuseblock also makes a good place to attach various smaller wires to
> the pack positive

A fuseholder is a good investment. But I'd be cautious about attaching
many different-sized wires to the same set screw terminal. It's easy to
have one or more of them make a bad connection and not know it.

Also, be sure to include smaller fuses for the smaller wires. One of the
(many) reasons for a fuse is to protect the wiring from overheating and
catching fire. A 500amp main fuse won't protect a little #18 wire going
off to some pack voltage measurement circuit.



--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[joe-22]

Lee, I didn't attach the other wires to the set-screw - The fuseblock has a
threaded stud that the fuse mounts to - I bought lugs to fit that stud.

I also have a piece of clear PVC 3" in diameter - I want to make a cover for
the fuseblock and fuse with that. Saw a short piece in two lengthwise and
fasten one of the pieces to the top of the block - maybe with tiewraps?

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] HV fuse placement in Sky/TS traction pack

> Rob Trahms wrote:
> >> I have 2 Ferraz-Shawmut 500A fuses in my current pack...these are
> >> fairly beefy fuses, similar to a D-cell in size. I have 2/0 cabling
> >> between batteries now... What have folks done for fusing in this
> >> case?
>
> First thought: 500 amps is too big for 2/0 cable and normal batteries
> and controllers. The 500a fuse will carry 1000 amps for many seconds
> before it blows, by which time your batteries, controller, or wiring may
> have already failed!
>
> On mounting fuses. Joe Strubhar's idea is a good one -- use a commercial
> fuseholder. As an alternative, I have also used junction blocks. See for
> example www.waytekwire.com stock# 47211 or 47213.
>
> Joseph H. Strubhar wrote:
>> I bought a fuseblock for the Mustang - not cheap, and you have to
>> mount it (it's rather large). But a nice solution for the purpose.
>>
>> I'm only using one between the pack positive and the controller - the
>> fuseblock also makes a good place to attach various smaller wires to
>> the pack positive
>
> A fuseholder is a good investment. But I'd be cautious about attaching
> many different-sized wires to the same set screw terminal. It's easy to
> have one or more of them make a bad connection and not know it.
>
> Also, be sure to include smaller fuses for the smaller wires. One of the
> (many) reasons for a fuse is to protect the wiring from overheating and
> catching fire. A 500amp main fuse won't protect a little #18 wire going
> off to some pack voltage measurement circuit.
>
>
>
> --
> Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
> 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
> Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
> leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.57/2492 - Release Date: 11/09/09
12:11:00

_______________________________________________
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Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[joe-22]

I started out with a 150A on the 312V Mustang, then went to a 200A after the
fuse blew (drawing only 10 amps at the time!). Azure spec'ed a 150A on their
DMOC455.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Trahms" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] HV fuse placement in Sky/TS traction pack

>
>
> Thanks Lee, that is great info - I kinda figured they were too big!
> Live and learn (and spend as I go!)...
>
> The fuse block and the mounting ideas are good - I can do that.
> Suggestions on fuse sizes?  My pack will have 53 SE100AHAs in series, and
> worst
> case is 3C-4C draw from the pack.
>
> Rob
>
>
> Lee Hart wrote:
>>
>> Rob Trahms wrote:
>>  >> I have 2 Ferraz-Shawmut 500A fuses in my current pack...these are
>>  >> fairly beefy fuses, similar to a D-cell in size. I have 2/0 cabling
>>  >> between batteries now... What have folks done for fusing in this
>>  >> case?
>>
>> First thought: 500 amps is too big for 2/0 cable and normal batteries
>> and controllers. The 500a fuse will carry 1000 amps for many seconds
>> before it blows, by which time your batteries, controller, or wiring may
>> have already failed!
>>
>> On mounting fuses. Joe Strubhar's idea is a good one -- use a commercial
>> fuseholder. As an alternative, I have also used junction blocks. See for
>> example www.waytekwire.com stock# 47211 or 47213.
>>
>> Joseph H. Strubhar wrote:
>>> I bought a fuseblock for the Mustang - not cheap, and you have to
>>> mount it (it's rather large). But a nice solution for the purpose.
>>>
>>> I'm only using one between the pack positive and the controller - the
>>> fuseblock also makes a good place to attach various smaller wires to
>>> the pack positive
>>
>> A fuseholder is a good investment. But I'd be cautious about attaching
>> many different-sized wires to the same set screw terminal. It's easy to
>> have one or more of them make a bad connection and not know it.
>>
>> Also, be sure to include smaller fuses for the smaller wires. One of the
>> (many) reasons for a fuse is to protect the wiring from overheating and
>> catching fire. A 500amp main fuse won't protect a little #18 wire going
>> off to some pack voltage measurement circuit.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
>> 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
>> Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
>> leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n4.nabble.com/HV-fuse-placement-in-Sky-TS-traction-pack-tp584961p585039.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.57/2492 - Release Date: 11/09/09
12:11:00

_______________________________________________
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Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
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[Lee Hart]

joe wrote:
> Lee, I didn't attach the other wires to the set-screw - The fuseblock has a
> threaded stud that the fuse mounts to - I bought lugs to fit that stud.

Good. That's an advantage for a real fuseholder, with more than one way
to connect wires to it.

> I also have a piece of clear PVC 3" in diameter - I want to make a cover for
> the fuseblock and fuse with that. Saw a short piece in two lengthwise and
> fasten one of the pieces to the top of the block - maybe with tiewraps?

That makes sense. Just be aware that a fuse is a resistor, and gets hot.
If it is too well enclosed, it gets hotter, which lowers it current rating.

--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Lee Hart]

Rob Trahms wrote:
>
> Thanks Lee, that is great info - I kinda figured they were too big!
> Live and learn (and spend as I go!)...
>
> The fuse block and the mounting ideas are good - I can do that.
> Suggestions on fuse sizes?  My pack will have 53 SE100AHAs in series, and
> worst
> case is 3C-4C draw from the pack.

The usual idea is to size the fuse so it blows *before* some other more
expensive thing is destroyed.

So, start by looking for the "weakest link" in the rest of your system.
Try to find out how much current they can stand and for how long.

I don't' recall what controller you are using, and I don't trust the
manufacturer's data on your lithium cells. So, this will have to be a
judgement call.

But for the sake of illustration, let's say you were using a Curtis
1221B-74xx controller and 6v golf cart batteries (because I happen to
have the specs handy). :-)

The batteries are approximately good for (based on voltage drop):
1000 amps peak for 1 second
500 amps for 1 minute
150 amps for 30 minutes
75 amps for 2 hours

The 1221B is rated:
400 amps for 2 minutes
250 amps for 5 minutes
150 amps for 1 hour

Now, look at the performance curves for the intended fuse. For example,
see http://us.ferrazshawmut.com/oem/media/pdf/A30QS.pdf for specs on
Ferraz Shawmut A30QS series semiconductor fuses.

rated   current to blow at various times
amps 1 sec 1 min 15 min
---- ----- ----- ------
300a 800a 525a 410a
200a 625a 425a 350a
100a 325a 220a 175a

Notice that the fuse can carry significantly more than its rated current
for a surprisingly length of time. A 300a fuse will blow if there is a
direct short, but it won't blow for a sustained overcurrent situation.
At the other end, a 100a fuse blows before both battery and controller
limits for all the times listed. It would safely protect them, but might
also "nuisance blow" just from climbing a hill (controller at 250 amps
for 5 minutes).

So, the 200a fuse looks like the best bet in this situation. If the
controller fails to keep the battery current under its current limit,
the fuse will blow before the controller dies.

--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Rob Trahms]

Hi Lee -

I have a Z1K-HV.

Rob

Lee Hart wrote:

Rob Trahms wrote:
>
> Thanks Lee, that is great info - I kinda figured they were too big!
> Live and learn (and spend as I go!)...
>
> The fuse block and the mounting ideas are good - I can do that.
> Suggestions on fuse sizes?  My pack will have 53 SE100AHAs in series, and
> worst
> case is 3C-4C draw from the pack.

The usual idea is to size the fuse so it blows *before* some other more
expensive thing is destroyed.

So, start by looking for the "weakest link" in the rest of your system.
Try to find out how much current they can stand and for how long.

I don't' recall what controller you are using, and I don't trust the
manufacturer's data on your lithium cells. So, this will have to be a
judgement call.

But for the sake of illustration, let's say you were using a Curtis
1221B-74xx controller and 6v golf cart batteries (because I happen to
have the specs handy). :-)

The batteries are approximately good for (based on voltage drop):
1000 amps peak for 1 second
500 amps for 1 minute
150 amps for 30 minutes
75 amps for 2 hours

The 1221B is rated:
400 amps for 2 minutes
250 amps for 5 minutes
150 amps for 1 hour

Now, look at the performance curves for the intended fuse. For example,
see http://us.ferrazshawmut.com/oem/media/pdf/A30QS.pdf for specs on
Ferraz Shawmut A30QS series semiconductor fuses.

rated   current to blow at various times
amps 1 sec 1 min 15 min
---- ----- ----- ------
300a 800a 525a 410a
200a 625a 425a 350a
100a 325a 220a 175a

Notice that the fuse can carry significantly more than its rated current
for a surprisingly length of time. A 300a fuse will blow if there is a
direct short, but it won't blow for a sustained overcurrent situation.
At the other end, a 100a fuse blows before both battery and controller
limits for all the times listed. It would safely protect them, but might
also "nuisance blow" just from climbing a hill (controller at 250 amps
for 5 minutes).

So, the 200a fuse looks like the best bet in this situation. If the
controller fails to keep the battery current under its current limit,
the fuse will blow before the controller dies.

--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Rob Trahms]

I am thinking this is the right type of fuse for the new 170V SE100AHA pack:
http://www.evparts.com/prod-FU9530.htm

Thoughts?
Rob

Rob Trahms wrote:

Hi Lee -

I have a Z1K-HV.

Rob

Lee Hart wrote:

Rob Trahms wrote:
>
> Thanks Lee, that is great info - I kinda figured they were too big!
> Live and learn (and spend as I go!)...
>
> The fuse block and the mounting ideas are good - I can do that.
> Suggestions on fuse sizes?  My pack will have 53 SE100AHAs in series, and
> worst
> case is 3C-4C draw from the pack.

The usual idea is to size the fuse so it blows *before* some other more
expensive thing is destroyed.

So, start by looking for the "weakest link" in the rest of your system.
Try to find out how much current they can stand and for how long.

I don't' recall what controller you are using, and I don't trust the
manufacturer's data on your lithium cells. So, this will have to be a
judgement call.

But for the sake of illustration, let's say you were using a Curtis
1221B-74xx controller and 6v golf cart batteries (because I happen to
have the specs handy). :-)

The batteries are approximately good for (based on voltage drop):
1000 amps peak for 1 second
500 amps for 1 minute
150 amps for 30 minutes
75 amps for 2 hours

The 1221B is rated:
400 amps for 2 minutes
250 amps for 5 minutes
150 amps for 1 hour

Now, look at the performance curves for the intended fuse. For example,
see http://us.ferrazshawmut.com/oem/media/pdf/A30QS.pdf for specs on
Ferraz Shawmut A30QS series semiconductor fuses.

rated   current to blow at various times
amps 1 sec 1 min 15 min
---- ----- ----- ------
300a 800a 525a 410a
200a 625a 425a 350a
100a 325a 220a 175a

Notice that the fuse can carry significantly more than its rated current
for a surprisingly length of time. A 300a fuse will blow if there is a
direct short, but it won't blow for a sustained overcurrent situation.
At the other end, a 100a fuse blows before both battery and controller
limits for all the times listed. It would safely protect them, but might
also "nuisance blow" just from climbing a hill (controller at 250 amps
for 5 minutes).

So, the 200a fuse looks like the best bet in this situation. If the
controller fails to keep the battery current under its current limit,
the fuse will blow before the controller dies.

--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

_______________________________________________
General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Robert Johnston]

On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 19:37, Rob Trahms <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> I am thinking this is the right type of fuse for the new 170V SE100AHA pack:
> http://www.evparts.com/prod-FU9530.htm
>
> Thoughts?
> Rob
>
>
> Rob Trahms wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi Lee -
>>
>> I have a Z1K-HV.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>> Lee Hart wrote:
>>>
>>> Rob Trahms wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Lee, that is great info - I kinda figured they were too big!
>>>> Live and learn (and spend as I go!)...
>>>>
>>>> The fuse block and the mounting ideas are good - I can do that.
>>>> Suggestions on fuse sizes?  My pack will have 53 SE100AHAs in series,
>>>> and
>>>> worst
>>>> case is 3C-4C draw from the pack.
>>>
>>> The usual idea is to size the fuse so it blows *before* some other more
>>> expensive thing is destroyed.
>>>
>>> So, start by looking for the "weakest link" in the rest of your system.
>>> Try to find out how much current they can stand and for how long.
>>>
>>> I don't' recall what controller you are using, and I don't trust the
>>> manufacturer's data on your lithium cells. So, this will have to be a
>>> judgement call.
>>>
>>> But for the sake of illustration, let's say you were using a Curtis
>>> 1221B-74xx controller and 6v golf cart batteries (because I happen to
>>> have the specs handy). :-)
>>>
>>> The batteries are approximately good for (based on voltage drop):
>>> 1000 amps peak for 1 second
>>> 500 amps for 1 minute
>>> 150 amps for 30 minutes
>>> 75 amps for 2 hours
>>>
>>> The 1221B is rated:
>>> 400 amps for 2 minutes
>>> 250 amps for 5 minutes
>>> 150 amps for 1 hour
>>>
>>> Now, look at the performance curves for the intended fuse. For example,
>>> see http://us.ferrazshawmut.com/oem/media/pdf/A30QS.pdf for specs on
>>> Ferraz Shawmut A30QS series semiconductor fuses.
>>>
>>> rated   current to blow at various times
>>> amps 1 sec   1 min   15 min
>>> ---- -----   -----   ------
>>> 300a 800a    525a    410a
>>> 200a 625a    425a    350a
>>> 100a 325a    220a    175a
>>>
>>> Notice that the fuse can carry significantly more than its rated current
>>> for a surprisingly length of time. A 300a fuse will blow if there is a
>>> direct short, but it won't blow for a sustained overcurrent situation.
>>> At the other end, a 100a fuse blows before both battery and controller
>>> limits for all the times listed. It would safely protect them, but might
>>> also "nuisance blow" just from climbing a hill (controller at 250 amps
>>> for 5 minutes).
>>>
>>> So, the 200a fuse looks like the best bet in this situation. If the
>>> controller fails to keep the battery current under its current limit,
>>> the fuse will blow before the controller dies.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Lee A. Hart          | Ring the bells that still can ring
>>> 814 8th Ave N                | Forget the perfect offering
>>> Sartell MN 56377     | There is a crack in everything
>>> leeahart earthlink.net       | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>>> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://n4.nabble.com/HV-fuse-placement-in-Sky-TS-traction-pack-tp584961p585207.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
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--
Robert "Anaerin" Johnston
Sent from Regina, SK, Canada

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[Lee Hart]

Rob Trahms wrote:
> I am thinking this is the right type of fuse for the new 170V SE100AHA pack:
> http://www.evparts.com/prod-FU9530.htm

That fuse is rated 130vdc (or maybe 100vdc; the product description has
both). You want a fuse voltage rating *higher* than your pack voltage,
to be sure it can safely open in the event of a fault.

The 200 amps might be OK, but I really don't know the capabilities of
your batteries.

The Zilla controller can be programmed for any desired battery current
limit. Obviously, you'd set it for something under the fuse's rating for
whatever time you want to draw that current.

--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

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[David Dymaxion]

http://www.sustainablebusiness.com/index.cfm/go/news.display/id/19208


     
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[Roger Heuckeroth]

That sucks!

On Nov 10, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:

> http://www.sustainablebusiness.com/index.cfm/go/news.display/id/19208
>
>
>
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[Zeke Yewdall]

There goes the one thing that could have possibly convinced me to buy a
chrysler ever......

On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
<[hidden email]>wrote:

> That sucks!
>
> On Nov 10, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:
>
> > http://www.sustainablebusiness.com/index.cfm/go/news.display/id/19208
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> >
>
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[Douglas A. Stansfield]

I have contacted my congressman and my senators regarding the $70 Million
Grant they received and asked them to take it back and give the money to
another EV manufacturer.  All of us could make 1000s of EVs for that
cost!!!!

Sincerely;

Douglas A. Stansfield
President
www.TransAtlanticElectricConversions.com
[hidden email]
973-875-6276 (office)
973-670-9208 (cell)
973-440-1619 (fax)

WHOLESALE ELECTRICITY PROVIDERS
And ELECTRIC CAR PRODUCERS




-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of Zeke Yewdall
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 1:20 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Chrysler No EVs

There goes the one thing that could have possibly convinced me to buy a
chrysler ever......

On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
<[hidden email]>wrote:

> That sucks!
>
> On Nov 10, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:
>
> > http://www.sustainablebusiness.com/index.cfm/go/news.display/id/19208
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
>

http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20091110/4b5a00c7/attac
hment.html

> > _______________________________________________
> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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[SLPinfo.org]

Of course if they are owned by Fiat who are themselves producing at least
one EV:
:
http://www.greencar.com/articles/fiat-brazil-produce-electric-car.php

I can see why Fiat would say no to Chrysler doing so.  That said, I agree
that Chrysler should then return the money.


- Peter Flipsen Jr
http://www.evalbum.com/1974



On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 11:30 AM, Douglas A. Stansfield <
[hidden email]> wrote:

> I have contacted my congressman and my senators regarding the $70 Million
> Grant they received and asked them to take it back and give the money to
> another EV manufacturer.  All of us could make 1000s of EVs for that
> cost!!!!
>
> Sincerely;
>
> Douglas A. Stansfield
> President
> www.TransAtlanticElectricConversions.com<http://www.transatlanticelectricconversions.com/>
> [hidden email]
> 973-875-6276 (office)
> 973-670-9208 (cell)
> 973-440-1619 (fax)
>
> WHOLESALE ELECTRICITY PROVIDERS
> And ELECTRIC CAR PRODUCERS
>
>
>
>

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[Roger Heuckeroth]

On Nov 10, 2009, at 1:30 PM, Douglas A. Stansfield wrote:

> Grant they received and asked them to take it back and give the  
> money to
> another EV manufacturer.  All of us could make 1000s of EVs for that
> cost!!!!

Sure could.  Imagine what you could get lithium battery prices from  
the Chinese down to if you dangles a $30M order in front of them.  I  
bet you could buy 20 kWh packs for about $5K a piece.  Probably could  
do lithium / AC conversions for $10K each with that type of  
negotiating capital.
 

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[Bob Rice-2]

   Yeah! Shoot that to Lee Hart for building the Sunrise EV-2! Well, MAYBE I
could double or quadruple MY production rate of about one a year?!Or spread
a little sead money from that to get a few prototypes going. The factory
would come later AFTER the car sold itself??!!

    Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Stansfield" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Chrysler No EVs

>I have contacted my congressman and my senators regarding the $70 Million
> Grant they received and asked them to take it back and give the money to
> another EV manufacturer.  All of us could make 1000s of EVs for that
> cost!!!!
>
> Sincerely;
>
> Douglas A. Stansfield
> President
> www.TransAtlanticElectricConversions.com
> [hidden email]
> 973-875-6276 (office)
> 973-670-9208 (cell)
> 973-440-1619 (fax)
>
> WHOLESALE ELECTRICITY PROVIDERS
> And ELECTRIC CAR PRODUCERS
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
> Behalf
> Of Zeke Yewdall
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 1:20 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Chrysler No EVs
>
> There goes the one thing that could have possibly convinced me to buy a
> chrysler ever......
>
> On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
> <[hidden email]>wrote:
>
>> That sucks!
>>
>> On Nov 10, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David Dymaxion wrote:
>>
>> > http://www.sustainablebusiness.com/index.cfm/go/news.display/id/19208
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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>>
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20091110/4b5a00c7/attac
> hment.html
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>> >
>>
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>>
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