I need an adapter kit for a Porsche boxster, any ideas?

[Mike Brown-15]

I will offer the benefit of 20 years in the adaptor business to this
discussion.

First, making the pattern (properly, not half-assed) is the hard
part.  Critical dimensions need to be to three decimal places.  If
the transmission has a "flopsy" mainshaft, it needs to be centered
and secured to get your measurements.  When we do a new pattern, we
have an experienced engineer and CADD guy spend a couple days making
the measurements and drawings.  Over the years, we have created a
collection of fixtures and special tools to make this easier.

Second, CNC is not the great solution.  CNC shops want to do MINIMUM
runs of 10 - 30 identical pcs. to give you a price break.  I sell
adaptors all over the country, and the only ones I get enough
repetition on for that kind of volume is VW Bugs, Rabbits, and
Porsche 914s.  So don't count on a group buy getting you a deal.

Just "take your transmission to the machine shop and let them CMM it"
is not a cheap deal, either.  I tried dealing with a CNC shop that
actively WANTED my repeat business.  I took them a trans to CMM and
make the plate from.  Unless I got into 10 or more quantities, they
wanted $600 JUST for the transmission plate.  Rings in less than 30
pc. identical quantities were $244 each.  So that's already more than
I sell a whole adaptor for, and we haven't even talked about the
taperlock hub yet.

This is not just this one shop.  I have pursued many CNC shops.

I have also tried to standardize the adaptor pieces as much as
possible without sacrificing proper custom fit.  You can't
standardize plates, due to wildly varying hole patterns, dowel
positions, CV joint interferences, etc.  The hubs can be standardized
somewhat in terms of blanks, but finished parts will still be
individual.  The only part that can really be standardized and done
in quantity is the spacer ring.

And from someone who has been working on cars professionally for 40+
years, I can tell you it is not realistic to expect all conversions
to switch to some common transmission or flywheel and clutch.  There
is no one size fits all.

This topic comes up as regularly as mushrooms after rain, and there's
a reason no one has "solved" the cheap standard adaptor problem - it
ain't that easy.

Mike Brown
Electro Automotive, POB 1113, Felton, CA  95018-1113 Phone [phone]
http://www.electroauto.com  email [hidden email]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979


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[Roger Heuckeroth]

Mike,

Thanks for sharing your experience with us.  Its always great to get  
this level of input from a veteran EV converter.

You are right about CNC shops wanting to have volume.  I have run into  
the same thing with my business.  I own a CNC machine (although not  
the type that would be used to make adapter plates and such) and to  
see the benefit of this type of machine you have to really own one.  I  
make flanges on mine, and the typical run is 1-2 flanges of the same  
size and many different sizes.  The advantage comes in once you design  
the flange on the computer it gets added to the library, and next time  
you need that flange, you place the piece of metal on the machine,  
open up the file of the cut path and click cut... done.  Machine shops  
can't be competitive on a one piece job, but you can if you own the  
machine.  I used to pay a premium of about $150/flange to have them  
cut, now its just the material cost.

Another product I manufacture is an adapter that allows a standardized  
filter to fit inside of a manhole.  The filter cartridge is always the  
same size , but there are hundreds of different sized and shaped  
manholes.  There are dozens of foundries, and each foundry has many  
different style molds.  The adapter is made out of vacuum formed ABS.  
We sell typically 1-20 of a particular size per order.  Thermoforming  
companies want to sell you hundreds or even thousands of pieces to  
make it worth their while.  So, we invested in our own thermoforming  
machine.  We make the forms out of wood, and keep no inventory of  
finished parts.  They are built per order, and are an exact fit.  And  
we sell them for less than half of the competition.

The point is that unless you own the machine, you will not see the  
benefit.

Roger


On Jul 10, 2009, at 6:39 PM, Mike Brown wrote:

> I will offer the benefit of 20 years in the adaptor business to this
> discussion.
>
> First, making the pattern (properly, not half-assed) is the hard
> part.  Critical dimensions need to be to three decimal places.  If
> the transmission has a "flopsy" mainshaft, it needs to be centered
> and secured to get your measurements.  When we do a new pattern, we
> have an experienced engineer and CADD guy spend a couple days making
> the measurements and drawings.  Over the years, we have created a
> collection of fixtures and special tools to make this easier.
>
> Second, CNC is not the great solution.  CNC shops want to do MINIMUM
> runs of 10 - 30 identical pcs. to give you a price break.  I sell
> adaptors all over the country, and the only ones I get enough
> repetition on for that kind of volume is VW Bugs, Rabbits, and
> Porsche 914s.  So don't count on a group buy getting you a deal.
>
> Just "take your transmission to the machine shop and let them CMM it"
> is not a cheap deal, either.  I tried dealing with a CNC shop that
> actively WANTED my repeat business.  I took them a trans to CMM and
> make the plate from.  Unless I got into 10 or more quantities, they
> wanted $600 JUST for the transmission plate.  Rings in less than 30
> pc. identical quantities were $244 each.  So that's already more than
> I sell a whole adaptor for, and we haven't even talked about the
> taperlock hub yet.
>
> This is not just this one shop.  I have pursued many CNC shops.
>
> I have also tried to standardize the adaptor pieces as much as
> possible without sacrificing proper custom fit.  You can't
> standardize plates, due to wildly varying hole patterns, dowel
> positions, CV joint interferences, etc.  The hubs can be standardized
> somewhat in terms of blanks, but finished parts will still be
> individual.  The only part that can really be standardized and done
> in quantity is the spacer ring.
>
> And from someone who has been working on cars professionally for 40+
> years, I can tell you it is not realistic to expect all conversions
> to switch to some common transmission or flywheel and clutch.  There
> is no one size fits all.
>
> This topic comes up as regularly as mushrooms after rain, and there's
> a reason no one has "solved" the cheap standard adaptor problem - it
> ain't that easy.
>
> Mike Brown
> Electro Automotive, POB 1113, Felton, CA  95018-1113 Phone  
> 831-429-1989
> http://www.electroauto.com  email [hidden email]
> Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since  
> 1979
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Roland Wiench]

When ordering a adapter kit for any transmission to fit a specific motor, it
is best for the user to do all the research to see if a listed adapter plate
and coupler for another type of vehicle will fit your application.

I order a adapter kit and coupling for a 1975 GE motor that has the same
pattern for a 327, 350, 400, and 427 V-8 GM engines and 231, 254 V-6 GM
engines that all can bolt up to Muncie, Saginaw, Richmond, Tremec, TH-350,
TH-400, and Powerglide transmissions from Mike Brown.

I just look through the Electro Auto Web Site listing of patterns they had,
and the 1992 C-10 V-6 transmission pattern will fit will fit any of the
above transmission and engine combinations, so I told Mike to make be a
adapter for a Warp 9 motor to fit the C-10 which fit my 350-cu.in. engine
pattern and Saganaw, TH-350 and TH-400 transmissions.

The six top holes in the adapter plate will fit any of the transmissions,
but the bottom of the plate may be shape different for covering the bottom
of the bell housing which is use as a closer cover.  I just drill and tap
the bottom portion to fit the bell housing of any of the manual transmission
and closure plates of the automatic.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Heuckeroth" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] I need an adapter kit for a Porsche boxster, any ideas?

> Mike,
>
> Thanks for sharing your experience with us.  Its always great to get
> this level of input from a veteran EV converter.
>
> You are right about CNC shops wanting to have volume.  I have run into
> the same thing with my business.  I own a CNC machine (although not
> the type that would be used to make adapter plates and such) and to
> see the benefit of this type of machine you have to really own one.  I
> make flanges on mine, and the typical run is 1-2 flanges of the same
> size and many different sizes.  The advantage comes in once you design
> the flange on the computer it gets added to the library, and next time
> you need that flange, you place the piece of metal on the machine,
> open up the file of the cut path and click cut... done.  Machine shops
> can't be competitive on a one piece job, but you can if you own the
> machine.  I used to pay a premium of about $150/flange to have them
> cut, now its just the material cost.
>
> Another product I manufacture is an adapter that allows a standardized
> filter to fit inside of a manhole.  The filter cartridge is always the
> same size , but there are hundreds of different sized and shaped
> manholes.  There are dozens of foundries, and each foundry has many
> different style molds.  The adapter is made out of vacuum formed ABS.
> We sell typically 1-20 of a particular size per order.  Thermoforming
> companies want to sell you hundreds or even thousands of pieces to
> make it worth their while.  So, we invested in our own thermoforming
> machine.  We make the forms out of wood, and keep no inventory of
> finished parts.  They are built per order, and are an exact fit.  And
> we sell them for less than half of the competition.
>
> The point is that unless you own the machine, you will not see the
> benefit.
>
> Roger
>
>
> On Jul 10, 2009, at 6:39 PM, Mike Brown wrote:
>
> > I will offer the benefit of 20 years in the adaptor business to this
> > discussion.
> >
> > First, making the pattern (properly, not half-assed) is the hard
> > part.  Critical dimensions need to be to three decimal places.  If
> > the transmission has a "flopsy" mainshaft, it needs to be centered
> > and secured to get your measurements.  When we do a new pattern, we
> > have an experienced engineer and CADD guy spend a couple days making
> > the measurements and drawings.  Over the years, we have created a
> > collection of fixtures and special tools to make this easier.
> >
> > Second, CNC is not the great solution.  CNC shops want to do MINIMUM
> > runs of 10 - 30 identical pcs. to give you a price break.  I sell
> > adaptors all over the country, and the only ones I get enough
> > repetition on for that kind of volume is VW Bugs, Rabbits, and
> > Porsche 914s.  So don't count on a group buy getting you a deal.
> >
> > Just "take your transmission to the machine shop and let them CMM it"
> > is not a cheap deal, either.  I tried dealing with a CNC shop that
> > actively WANTED my repeat business.  I took them a trans to CMM and
> > make the plate from.  Unless I got into 10 or more quantities, they
> > wanted $600 JUST for the transmission plate.  Rings in less than 30
> > pc. identical quantities were $244 each.  So that's already more than
> > I sell a whole adaptor for, and we haven't even talked about the
> > taperlock hub yet.
> >
> > This is not just this one shop.  I have pursued many CNC shops.
> >
> > I have also tried to standardize the adaptor pieces as much as
> > possible without sacrificing proper custom fit.  You can't
> > standardize plates, due to wildly varying hole patterns, dowel
> > positions, CV joint interferences, etc.  The hubs can be standardized
> > somewhat in terms of blanks, but finished parts will still be
> > individual.  The only part that can really be standardized and done
> > in quantity is the spacer ring.
> >
> > And from someone who has been working on cars professionally for 40+
> > years, I can tell you it is not realistic to expect all conversions
> > to switch to some common transmission or flywheel and clutch.  There
> > is no one size fits all.
> >
> > This topic comes up as regularly as mushrooms after rain, and there's
> > a reason no one has "solved" the cheap standard adaptor problem - it
> > ain't that easy.
> >
> > Mike Brown
> > Electro Automotive, POB 1113, Felton, CA  95018-1113 Phone
> > 831-429-1989
> > http://www.electroauto.com  email [hidden email]
> > Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since
> > 1979
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>

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Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Jeff Shanab]

> I will offer the benefit of 20 years in the adaptor business to this
> discussion.
>
> First, making the pattern (properly, not half-assed) is the hard
> part.  Critical dimensions need to be to three decimal places.  If the
> transmission has a "flopsy" mainshaft, it needs to be centered and
> secured to get your measurements.  When we do a new pattern, we have
> an experienced engineer and CADD guy spend a couple days making the
> measurements and drawings.  Over the years, we have created a
> collection of fixtures and special tools to make this easier.

AMEN, I agree. Thats why I measured the motor, If it is available it is
very precise. I spent more time on this than on the machining.
>
> Second, CNC is not the great solution.  CNC shops want to do MINIMUM
> runs of 10 - 30 identical pcs. to give you a price break.  I sell
> adaptors all over the country, and the only ones I get enough
> repetition on for that kind of volume is VW Bugs, Rabbits, and Porsche
> 914s.  So don't count on a group buy getting you a deal.
Unfortunantly CNC is the most practical solution, you just need to
standardize as much as you can and find a shop that is willing.
I was lucky, I found a shop that was. Now I was gonna pay more for the
lower qty but, I expect that.

>
> Just "take your transmission to the machine shop and let them CMM it"
> is not a cheap deal, either.  I tried dealing with a CNC shop that
> actively WANTED my repeat business.  I took them a trans to CMM and
> make the plate from.  Unless I got into 10 or more quantities, they
> wanted $600 JUST for the transmission plate.  Rings in less than 30
> pc. identical quantities were $244 each.  So that's already more than
> I sell a whole adaptor for, and we haven't even talked about the
> taperlock hub yet.
>
> This is not just this one shop.  I have pursued many CNC shops.
>
> I have also tried to standardize the adaptor pieces as much as
> possible without sacrificing proper custom fit.  You can't standardize
> plates, due to wildly varying hole patterns, dowel positions, CV joint
> interferences, etc.  The hubs can be standardized somewhat in terms of
> blanks, but finished parts will still be individual.  The only part
> that can really be standardized and done in quantity is the spacer ring.

While not tested, I think I had a way to deal with this. It is an idea,
but I will defer to your experience. For now, I'll just throw it out
there. This idea is based on the use of the motor bell(spacer?) that has
a 12" registered diameter as a consistent interface (sorry I B a
software engineer).
  1) A fixture is made which accepts a "plate". This fixture stays at
the cnc shop, it has slot keys underneath and some 1/2 through holes. So
you throw it up on the machine and bolt it down. There is a 1" bored
hole in the middle or a 1x1x1 round they use an edge finder or
concentric dial indicator on; most cnc machines have a program for the
edge finder method. Total setup time is less than or about 10 minutes.
To be honest, CNC's have a good x/y ratio, a typical mill doesn't. You
can't get to all the tranny bolt holes in a typical adapter plate in one
setup on a bridgeport, you have to move the head. A CNC with a tool
changer seems the only way to make a buisness out of this feasable. You
can try to get a days worth together, But I agree you probably have to
own it yourself :-(

 2) now you supply the plates needed for the adapters. Many different
models, but all the blanks have been water-jet cut previously and have a
rough 12 diameter hole in them and a flat edge. Their are many ways to
locate the plate and it can be +/- .005, the cnc is gonna machine the
rest. A couple of register holes outside the pattern area that drop over
some pins. maybe this is 4 slots at 90 degrees? this locates x,y, and C
(rotation) even with the slop of waterjet. Waterjet is +/- .005 on size
but .001 on repeatability, It suffers at the start and end points and
thicker stock, but is fine for creating the outer profile and roughing
out the main 12" hole.

3) load the program and let her go. They kiss the 12" register diameter
and then put in the 2 locating dowel reemed holes and then walk off the
tapped mounting and/or clear holes. Different program for each plate is
not an issue if they can share the fixture.

4) The motor bells are all the same except 1 dimension, the depth. It is
a parameter and they can handle that. Maybe there will be groups and not
that many numbers, I'd need to do a bunch to find out. Changing the
plate thickness is also an option so the combination of the two might
yield an optimization.

5) I think using a clutch that is independent of the OEM solves a few
problems nicely. I used a tilton but I went nuts and went 3 plate and
that stack was taller so it involved some unnecessary modification.
Stick to the 7.25 double plate and standardize the motor side. Small
BlockChevy (1 piece oil seal) allows you to use the racing clutches
which can be found on ebay cheap. Now you just order the disks with the
appropriate spline and select the proper pilot bushing size.  The point
is that a tilton or quartermaster or other racing clutch all have same
bolt patter to the flywheel, and you can get flywheels that are very
small and light since you don't need the starter teeth. ("Button Flywheel")

>
>
> And from someone who has been working on cars professionally for 40+
> years, I can tell you it is not realistic to expect all conversions to
> switch to some common transmission or flywheel and clutch.  There is
> no one size fits all.
Transmission. no, but I think because of the racing clutch
standardization that is already out there, and the common motor side in
our case, a common flywheel and clutch is possible for a large
percentage of adapters.  Maybe a small group of 3 or 4 models. The
wrench in the works is the clutch release arm. On the nissan, I was able
to buy the clutch thorw out bearing for a 2004 350z and put it on the
1987 300zx and get the radiused contact throwout bearing the tiltion
needed. Tilton and quaretermaster solve this problem by offering a
hydraulic throwout bearing kit, but that is $$$. I like to keep it
simple and use the stock setup if possible. Other problems are when the
bell housing is seperate from tranny, in some cases the throwout setup
is weird.

Most all of this is based on RWD, The FWD may get more interesting. :-)

Why did I stop persuing this idea? because I think I'd rather have a
siamese 9 or AC.  Adaption is: Motor mount and driveshaft, ye-ha!
How can we make this cheaper? group buy from Jim Husted? Then he can get
deals on shafts, etc.


>
> This topic comes up as regularly as mushrooms after rain, and there's
> a reason no one has "solved" the cheap standard adaptor problem - it
> ain't that easy.
Not easy, Never cheap, but maybe we can do better.

My experiance is more the shade tree mechanic and racer, but I worked 23
years in a machine shop and did a lot of side jobs for racers and of
course, my adapter. http://www.evalbum.com/747




>
> Mike Brown
> Electro Automotive, POB 1113, Felton, CA  95018-1113 Phone [phone]
> http://www.electroauto.com  email [hidden email]
> Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
>
>

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Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

[Phil Marino-2]

On Sat, Jul 11, 2009 at 4:43 PM, Jeff Shanab <[hidden email]> wrote:

> > I will offer the benefit of 20 years in the adaptor business to this
> > discussion.
> >
> > First, making the pattern (properly, not half-assed) is the hard
> > part.  Critical dimensions need to be to three decimal places.  If the
> > transmission has a "flopsy" mainshaft, it needs to be centered and
> > secured to get your measurements.  When we do a new pattern, we have
> > an experienced engineer and CADD guy spend a couple days making the
> > measurements and drawings.  Over the years, we have created a
> > collection of fixtures and special tools to make this easier.
>
> AMEN, I agree. Thats why I measured the motor, If it is available it is
> very precise. I spent more time on this than on the machining.
> >
> > Second, CNC is not the great solution.  CNC shops want to do MINIMUM
> > runs of 10 - 30 identical pcs. to give you a price break.  I sell
> > adaptors all over the country, and the only ones I get enough
> > repetition on for that kind of volume is VW Bugs, Rabbits, and Porsche
> > 914s.  So don't count on a group buy getting you a deal.
> Unfortunantly CNC is the most practical solution, you just need to
> standardize as much as you can and find a shop that is willing.
> I was lucky, I found a shop that was. Now I was gonna pay more for the
> lower qty but, I expect that.
>
> >
> > Just "take your transmission to the machine shop and let them CMM it"
> > is not a cheap deal, either.  I tried dealing with a CNC shop that
> > actively WANTED my repeat business.  I took them a trans to CMM and
> > make the plate from.  Unless I got into 10 or more quantities, they
> > wanted $600 JUST for the transmission plate.  Rings in less than 30
> > pc. identical quantities were $244 each.  So that's already more than
> > I sell a whole adaptor for, and we haven't even talked about the
> > taperlock hub yet.
> >
> > This is not just this one shop.  I have pursued many CNC shops.
> >
> > I have also tried to standardize the adaptor pieces as much as
> > possible without sacrificing proper custom fit.  You can't standardize
> > plates, due to wildly varying hole patterns, dowel positions, CV joint
> > interferences, etc.  The hubs can be standardized somewhat in terms of
> > blanks, but finished parts will still be individual.  The only part
> > that can really be standardized and done in quantity is the spacer ring.
>
> While not tested, I think I had a way to deal with this. It is an idea,
> but I will defer to your experience. For now, I'll just throw it out
> there. This idea is based on the use of the motor bell(spacer?) that has
> a 12" registered diameter as a consistent interface (sorry I B a
> software engineer).
>  1) A fixture is made which accepts a "plate". This fixture stays at
> the cnc shop, it has slot keys underneath and some 1/2 through holes. So
> you throw it up on the machine and bolt it down. There is a 1" bored
> hole in the middle or a 1x1x1 round they use an edge finder or
> concentric dial indicator on; most cnc machines have a program for the
> edge finder method. Total setup time is less than or about 10 minutes.
> To be honest, CNC's have a good x/y ratio, a typical mill doesn't. You
> can't get to all the tranny bolt holes in a typical adapter plate in one
> setup on a bridgeport, you have to move the head. A CNC with a tool
> changer seems the only way to make a buisness out of this feasable. You
> can try to get a days worth together, But I agree you probably have to
> own it yourself :-(
>
>  2) now you supply the plates needed for the adapters. Many different
> models, but all the blanks have been water-jet cut previously and have a
> rough 12 diameter hole in them and a flat edge. Their are many ways to
> locate the plate and it can be +/- .005, the cnc is gonna machine the
> rest. A couple of register holes outside the pattern area that drop over
> some pins. maybe this is 4 slots at 90 degrees? this locates x,y, and C
> (rotation) even with the slop of waterjet.

Jeff -

Four slots is not generally  a good idea.  In almost all cases, only three
of the slots will make contact, and the fourth will float. ( unless there is
not enough slot-pin clearance, and then it just won't go together at all).
 You really want three slots at 120 degrees.

Three slots will always fit and all three pins will make contact  -
 assuming the pins are not too large for the slots, and will provide exact,
repeatable location.  That's because, one plate on top of another has three
degrees of freedom of motion ( x, y, and rotation about the z axis).

Phil Marino
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[Justin Southam]

Hi All, just came across this as i'm no longer able to keep up-to-date
with the list.. Has anyone attempted to combine and engine adaptor such
as the Kennedy one with a motor adaptor such as Roland mentioned.
Kennedy make Porsche adaptors for Chev V6/V8 and Toyota 22R. EVParts
sell motor adaptors for both the Chev and Toyota. The extra thickness of
both adaptors will likely present some issues but this approach may be a
cheaper option than freighting transmissions around the country for
measurement and having one off adaptors made. This could potentially
work with any make where engine adaptors are available. Just a thought.

Regards,

Justin.



enganear wrote:

> This is the company that will make the adapter for my Mustang.  They have
> been making adapters to tie together odd combinations of powerplants and
> transmissions for 41 years.  Their work is said to be first class and the
> prices appear reasonable.  More at http://www.kennedyeng.com/ .  Contact
> them with specifics.  they know engines and transmissions, electric motors
> are kinda' new to them.
>
> I have no affiliation with this company, but I've been a fan from the 60s
> when they were putting v8s in VWs.
>
> Stephen Chapman
>
>
> Michael Kadie wrote:
>  
>> I need an adapter kit for a Porsche boxster, any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>>    
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>  
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[Roland Wiench]

Hello Justin,

This engine adapter should work. Just tell Kennedy you need the transmission
input shaft to fit a V6/V8 Chev engine. This may be either a new input shaft
or a extension.  This new shaft makes up the distance for the increase
length and fits the Chev clutches and pilot bearing.

We use a similar type of adapter on my nephew Porsche to hook up a V8 to. A
longer transmission input shaft came with this kit to make up the distance.
It was very easy to replace this shaft.  All we had to do was to is remove a
snap ring and slid out the old shaft and install the new one on the type of
transaxle that was use at the time.

I would check with Kennedy if they still have a replacement input shaft or
extensions.  I think at the time, you could use the Porsche clutch plate
that fit the extension that works with the Chev flywheel and pressure plate.

In my case, I had a GE motor that had the same pattern for any GM V8 that
fit any GM V6 that fit a adapter plate for a C-10 92 pickup using a flywheel
for a V8 and a V6 clutch with a V8 long throw out bearing which was control
by a hydraulic fork lever from a F-104 fighter jet, that was control by a
marine hydraulic cable unit that is design to move the outboard engines.

Roland






----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin Southam" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 3:36 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] I need an adapter kit for a Porsche boxster, any ideas?

> Hi All, just came across this as i'm no longer able to keep up-to-date
> with the list.. Has anyone attempted to combine and engine adaptor such
> as the Kennedy one with a motor adaptor such as Roland mentioned.
> Kennedy make Porsche adaptors for Chev V6/V8 and Toyota 22R. EVParts
> sell motor adaptors for both the Chev and Toyota. The extra thickness of
> both adaptors will likely present some issues but this approach may be a
> cheaper option than freighting transmissions around the country for
> measurement and having one off adaptors made. This could potentially
> work with any make where engine adaptors are available. Just a thought.
>
> Regards,
>
> Justin.
>
>
>
> enganear wrote:
> > This is the company that will make the adapter for my Mustang.  They
> > have
> > been making adapters to tie together odd combinations of powerplants and
> > transmissions for 41 years.  Their work is said to be first class and
> > the
> > prices appear reasonable.  More at http://www.kennedyeng.com/ .  Contact
> > them with specifics.  they know engines and transmissions, electric
> > motors
> > are kinda' new to them.
> >
> > I have no affiliation with this company, but I've been a fan from the
> > 60s
> > when they were putting v8s in VWs.
> >
> > Stephen Chapman
> >
> >
> > Michael Kadie wrote:
> >
> >> I need an adapter kit for a Porsche boxster, any ideas?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Michael
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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> > 07/06/09 17:54:00
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> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
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>

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