Wifi router EV battery tester

[drowe67]

Hi,

I have been messing around with a battery AH tester based on a Wifi
router for data collection and control, and $2 PIC microcontroller
board. I have blogged on it here:

http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=119

Cheers,

David


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[Seth Rothenberg]

David,
very cool stuff.

I just got my freerunner(s) back from Buzz Fix land,
I am considering using one as a speedometer.
(I got tangogps to auto-start)

and my quick brain just realized that I could
configure it to automatically sync when
it detects my home network.

(FreeRunner is a linux phone that does
everything but make calls  - and that
probably works by now :-)

GPS
wifi
GSM
gprs data (internet) (someday)
accellerometer
stero phone jack
USB  (sort of :-)
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[Chuck Hursch-2]

David,

Thanks for your posting.  Cool data collection device.  When I've
had a digital clamp-on ammeter (with Hall-effect device)
measuring the DC side of an inverter, the 10Hz bar graph pulses
up and down.  It's hard to say how much noise the FET's are
putting on the battery (you probably have a better idea).  I
prefer using good ol' resistors for testing batteries.  I use
carbon steel ones from C&H (railroad locomotive resistors), and I
have one that can be used for loading up to 24V of batteries at
75A, or the setup I like more is a series set of resistors to
load the whole car pack (96V) at 75A, and hold it nearly constant
at 75A with lightbulbs in parallel.  Shouldn't be any noise on
the line with that setup, just pure DC.  Lots of heat from the
car, about 7kW.

I have a software background, and when I see all those circuit
boards and components, my eyes roll up.  Are you a EE by
training?  Sometimes I think about going back to school so I can
build circuits, but maybe there is a better, less expensive way
to learn?  (Drum roll please...  "and that's by doing it").

Also it's great that you're building all those low-cost EVs (as I
saw from the links in your blog).

Chuck

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Rowe" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Wifi router EV battery tester


> Hi,
>
> I have been messing around with a battery AH tester based on a
Wifi
> router for data collection and control, and $2 PIC
microcontroller

> board. I have blogged on it here:
>
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=119
>
> Cheers,
>
> David
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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[Bill Dennis]

I finally go around to installing the ceramic heater core in my EV today
(inspection says no defroster, no pass).  Everything works and I get
nice hot air coming out of the vents.  The only problem is that when I
turn off the heater, I hear a sizzling sound coming from the heater
relay for a few seconds, and when I touch the Normally Closed leads,
they're quite hot.  Is this a problem, or is it normal?  I bought the
heater kit a few years ago from KVA.  There was a 2 x 2 x 3/8 bar magnet
stick up between the NC leads, but that fell off when I was installing.  
I don't know if it belongs there.  A heat sink possibly?  In any case,
it won't go back on.

Thanks.

Bill

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[Russco]

> I finally go around to installing the ceramic heater core in my EV today
> (inspection says no defroster, no pass).  Everything works and I get
> nice hot air coming out of the vents.  The only problem is that when I
> turn off the heater, I hear a sizzling sound coming from the heater
> relay for a few seconds, and when I touch the Normally Closed leads,
> they're quite hot.  Is this a problem, or is it normal?  I bought the
> heater kit a few years ago from KVA.  There was a 2 x 2 x 3/8 bar magnet
> stick up between the NC leads, but that fell off when I was installing.
> I don't know if it belongs there.  A heat sink possibly?  In any case,
> it won't go back on.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
>

The magnet definitely belongs there.  It is called a blowout and quenches
the arc upon contact opening.  The magnet must be installed correctly re:
north and south poles and the relay contacts are marked positive and
negative, which also must be adhered to.  Without the magnet, the arc can
continue indefinitely until the contacts/relay burn up and catch fire.

Use both NO contacts wired in series for the higher voltage rating.

A snubber may help, but the P and B relay you are using is the best there
is for the application of DC inductive loads, such as an EV heater.

Russco used to manufacture heaters with the same P and B DC rated relay.


Russ Kaufmann

RUSSCO Engineering

http://russcoev.com

Is There a Possibility of a Russco Lithium Charger with BMS?

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[Bill Dennis]

[hidden email] wrote:
> The magnet definitely belongs there.
Any idea how I reattach it.  Can I just JB Weld it back on?

Thanks.

Bill

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[Adrian DeLeon]

I reattached one with a piece of heat shrink. Hot glue, poly glue,  
anything that will keep it in place should work.

On Sun, 05 Jul 2009 13:58:07 -0700, Bill Dennis wrote:

[relay magnet fell off]
> Any idea how I reattach it.  Can I just JB Weld it back on?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill

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[Bob Bath]

I've used epoxy successfully.

Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic?  My $23 "CivicWithACord" DVD (57 mins.) shows ins and outs you'll encounter converting the sedan; the del Sol, or the hatchback. Each runs 144V/18 batteries.  Primary focus on component/instrumentation/ battery placement and other considerations.  For more info,   http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html

                          ____

                       __/__|__\__

             =D-------/   - -     \

                      'O'-----'O'-'

Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?

OR Lic. "LCTRNS"

--- On Sun, 7/5/09, Adrian DeLeon <[hidden email]> wrote:

From: Adrian DeLeon <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hissing Heater Relay
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Date: Sunday, July 5, 2009, 3:57 PM

I reattached one with a piece of heat shrink. Hot glue, poly glue, 
anything that will keep it in place should work.

On Sun, 05 Jul 2009 13:58:07 -0700, Bill Dennis wrote:

[relay magnet fell off]
> Any idea how I reattach it.  Can I just JB Weld it back on?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill

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[Bill Dennis]

Thanks for all the help, everyone!  I JB-Welded the magnet back into place
last night, and when I took the MetroLectrical to the inspection station
this morning, it passed without a hitch (or a hiss!).

Bill

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